{"id":81972,"date":"2024-03-06T07:00:00","date_gmt":"2024-03-06T15:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/lbpost.com\/hi-lo\/?post_type=newspack_nl_cpt&p=81972"},"modified":"2024-03-06T09:22:19","modified_gmt":"2024-03-06T17:22:19","slug":"call-me-baby-a-long-beacher-goes-to-nola","status":"publish","type":"newspack_nl_cpt","link":"https:\/\/lbpost.com\/esd\/newsletter\/call-me-baby-a-long-beacher-goes-to-nola","title":{"rendered":"Call me \u2018baby\u2019: A Long Beacher goes to NOLA"},"content":{"rendered":"\n\n\n\n\n
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Good morning Long Beach \u2014 today, we\u2019re going to take it Big Easy<\/strong>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

When in New Orleans, there\u2019s a certain loose albeit charmed formality to the way the folks out here say \u201chello, ma\u2019am\u201d (ladies, it\u2019s not offensive the way we think it is in California). And another thing, anyone, I mean anyone<\/em> just might call you \u201cbaby\u201d \u2014 from the bartenders to the person giving you directions on the street. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThank you, baby,\u201d \u201cHere you go, baby,\u201d \u201cyou\u2019re welcome, baby,\u201d \u201cThe French Quarter\u2019s that way, baby.\u201d Personally? J\u2019Adore<\/em>. (You may also encounter spoken French out here). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Not sure if it was the purple beret on my head or what, but a young man even stopped to ask me something in French while I was walking back to my Airbnb in the Treme neighborhood. When I looked perplexed, he did too. \u201c\u00cates-vous fran\u00e7ais?\u201d he asked. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cNon!\u201d (I failed French class). Anyway, as I type this, I\u2019m drinking a $5 French 76 (my creole turtle soup is on the way), and I\u2019m going to tell you just where to find that. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Today, we\u2019re doing a short NOLA itinerary. Why? Because I\u2019m<\/em> here. And you should consider getting your butt here too \u2014 after all, you can book Southwest out of the blessedly easy<\/em> Long Beach Airport for a halfway decent price nowadays. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Walking around much of NOLA, you\u2019ll see ornate moldings, iron balconies and vibrant colors splashed across its Creole-style architecture (or \u201cFrench Colonial\u201d). You\u2019ll breathe in creole and cajun flavors and hear horns blowing around any given corner. You\u2019ll spot plaques, museums and murals that tell the story of the blowingest and earliest-ever jazz players. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

You\u2019ll also find a city unwavering of charm and willingness to offer its enchanting personality not really so long after Hurricane Katrina\u2019s deadly submergence \u2014 and despite deep scars from a past life as the largest slave market in the U.S.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

From po\u2019boys (that\u2019s a sandwich, FYI) to sno-cones, beignets and beyond, there are simply too many things to share about NOLA, so I\u2019m going to rapid-fire off a few of my favorite places from three neighborhoods. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00c0 votre sant\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Trem<\/strong>e<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Treme, near the French Quarter<\/strong>, is the oldest Black neighborhood in the country. It\u2019s steeped in rich history as one can imagine and has been dubbed the birthplace of jazz \u2014 and Louis Armstrong. Take a stroll through Armstrong Park<\/strong> and be sure to take your hat off when you reach Congo Square<\/strong>; it\u2019s the site where enslaved people could gather as early as 1796 to share drumbeats and dance together. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Treme Coffeehouse. By Kat Schuster. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Later, they would incorporate horns before the city banned music-playing for Black people in 1856. Today, walking around Treme, you\u2019re bound to hear the sounds of drums, horns or singing just about anywhere \u2014 be sure to pause and listen. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

We chose to stay in this historic neighborhood, where we booked a room on Airbnb<\/strong> with Gwendolyn<\/strong>, a retired social worker who has lived in her home since 1943. Built in 1836, this house is real New Orleans<\/em> and one of the first homes ever built in Treme. She has multiple rooms you can book for a great price. Check out her listing here<\/a> and be sure to get a morning chat in with her. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Two favorites:<\/p>\n\n\n\n


Treme Coffeehouse<\/strong> – 1501 St. Philip St., New Orleans, LA<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Colorful, cozy, hip albeit family-oriented cafe in the heart of the neighborhood. Buy one of their T-shirts and a chicory coffee. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fritai<\/strong> – 1535 Basin St., New Orleans, LA<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The Fritay Platter at Fritai was a combination of akra, green and sweet plantains, griyo and pikliz. Photo by Kat Schuster<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Chef Charlie Pierre<\/strong>, a Top Chef<\/strong> contestant this spring, asked us how we liked our meal and where we were from when we stopped into Fritai<\/strong>. He opened his restaurant, with Haitian roots and NOLA influences, in 2021. It\u2019s since been nominated twice for a James Beard Award<\/strong>. Go here \u2014 especially for happy hour, where you can get (veggie heads rejoice) toasted corn ribs, akra, <\/strong>the fritay platter<\/strong> and more half off<\/strong>. Plus $5 cocktails like the Jungle Bird<\/strong> (Appleton Single Estate, Campari, lime, Orgeat Syrup and pineapple juice). Drool over Pierre\u2019s menu here<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

More: Backstreet Cultural Museum<\/a>, St. Augustine<\/a>, Fatma\u2019s Cozy Corner<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The French Quarter <\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The Vieux Carre<\/strong> or Crown Jewel<\/strong> of the city, is <\/em>the oldest neighborhood in town (founded in 1718<\/strong>). It\u2019s also the most touristy \u2014 for good reason. I suggest starting out here in the morning if you can, while it\u2019s quiet, so you can just wander. At night, weave your way through this jazzy, romantic, old-world burrow beneath flickering gaslit street lights. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Here, you\u2019ll find a reimagined sprawling French Market<\/strong> (Bloody Marys while trinket shopping, anyone?) Jackson Square<\/strong>, creole cuisine, an 18th-century cathedral, unparalleled happy hours, voodoo shops, tarot card readers on every corner and more. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Here are some places I went:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

NOLA PoBoys –<\/strong> 908 Bourbon St., New Orleans, LA <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

This place has a lot going on menu-wise. They sell 12- and 8-inch po\u2019boys<\/strong> of almost any and every variety. They even have a grilled portobello po\u2019 boy and plenty of other veggie options. We split an 8-inch shrimp po\u2019 boy here probably about 22 minutes after arriving in town and I haven\u2019t stopped daydreaming about that spicy flavor punch yet. If anyone knows where to get a good shrimp po\u2019 boy here in LB, you let me know ASAP. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lafitte\u2019s Blacksmith Shop Bar –<\/strong> 941 Bourbon St., New Orleans, LA<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Let\u2019s just get Bourbon Street<\/strong> out of the way while we\u2019re here eating po\u2019 boys. This is Vegas-level<\/strong> energy on steroids; be careful walking around solo at night \u2014 not an impossible feat, but stay vigilant. Honestly, I had my fill of this area by Night One, but there are some interesting places like the swashbuckling Lafitte\u2019s Blacksmith Shop Bar<\/strong>, which is the oldest bar in NOLA built between 1722<\/strong> and 1732<\/strong>. While I was there, I got \u201cThe Purple Drank<\/strong>,\u201d a frozen drink which definitely wasn\u2019t being served in the 18th century, but I couldn\u2019t tell you which century we\u2019re in now by the time I reached the bottom. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Looking for a really<\/em> fun night out? Skip Bourbon Street and head to Frenchman Street <\/strong>(Bywater area) \u2014 that\u2019s all I\u2019ll say. You\u2019ll know what I mean when you get there. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Broussards – <\/strong>819 Conti Street, New Orleans, LA<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

A 100-year-old elegant French-Creole bar and restaurant, where you can try the most popular cocktails from each decade they\u2019ve been open from the 1920s Bee\u2019s Knees to the 2020 Brousard\u2019s Smile. During happy hour, all 11 of those cocktails, plus a few more, are $5. Yours truly enjoyed a French 76 (as discussed above), a Pimm\u2019s Cup and a roasted beet goat cheese salad. Plus, I even tried a bite of creole turtle soup (it was good but turtles are just too cute). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vampire Cafe – <\/strong>801 Royal Street, New Orleans, LA<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Of course NOLA had to have a vampy cafe, which pretty much constantly plays Lana Del Rey and adjacent sad girl music. Here, you can order Blood Bag Cocktails, which actually come in bags of red-liquid. You can also get drinks like the Type A, a \u201cDracula Sparkling St. Germaine Cocktail.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

When I visited, I was working remotely, so I opted for the \u201cStake This\u201d to keep it professional. It was a loose tea blend of herbs, flowers and green and rooibos teas. I also enjoyed a big old bowl of seafood gumbo and damn-near ordered a second. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

BONUS<\/strong>: Take a jazz cruise<\/a> on Steamboat Natchez<\/strong> ($55) along the Mississippi River.<\/strong> Plus, check out the dreamy Carousel Bar & Lounge<\/a> \u2014 the bar actually spins, slowly, of course. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bywater\/Marigny<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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A Bywater eatery is covered in Dr. Bob’s famed folk art. Photo by Kat Schuster<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

This is by far the coolest and hippest modern area in NOLA. It\u2019s everything that L.A. (Silverlake<\/strong> in particular) just couldn\u2019t get right. Check these places out:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Horn\u2019s – <\/strong>2440 Chartres St., New Orleans, LA<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Best breakfast I have ever had in my short life in the cutest neighborhood imaginable. I ordered the Crabby Wife<\/strong>; that\u2019s crawfish \u00e9touff\u00e9e, house-made potato latke with two eggs and a biscuit. Plus, a bloody mary with house made mix. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Parlour Books – <\/strong>3229 Dauphine St., New Orleans, LA<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

This shop is tiny, but you\u2019ll want to spend hours perusing the owner\u2019s careful selections<\/a>. After I plucked \u201cComing Through Slaughter<\/strong>\u201d by Michael Ondaatje<\/strong> from the New Orleans section, she pointed me to check out the Holt Cemetery, a pauper\u2019s graveyard of unmarked graves. A few pages in, I realized that\u2019s where Buddy Bolden<\/strong>, the book\u2019s subject, is buried. Bolden, a New Orleans cornetist, is known as the \u201cfirst man of jazz\u201d. We did visit this graveyard and his monument, which read \u201cblowingest man since Gabriel.\u201d He died in 1931 at 54. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

More<\/strong>: Euclid Records<\/a>, Bratz Y\u2019all Bistro<\/a>, Dr. Bob Folk Art<\/a>, Dat Dog Frenchman<\/a>, Bacchanal Wine<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

BONUS<\/strong>: The Warehouse district is also worth checking out. There, check out Bar Marilou<\/a>. You should also take some time to wander around New Orleans City Park<\/a> in Mid-City. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Notice I didn\u2019t tell you where to get a beignet, a sno-ball, sazerac, etc. \u2014  these things aren\u2019t hard to find and they\u2019re best discovered instead of sought out. Cheers and happy travels.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Kat Schuster<\/strong> is the assistant editor for the Long Beach Post. You can reach her at kat@lbpost.com<\/a>.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Shrimp po\u2019 boys, Treme, sazerac and all that jazz.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":302,"featured_media":81978,"template":"","meta":{"newspack_sponsor_sponsorship_scope":"","newspack_sponsor_native_byline_display":"inherit","newspack_sponsor_native_category_display":"inherit","newspack_sponsor_underwriter_style":"inherit","newspack_sponsor_underwriter_placement":"inherit","inline_featured_image":false,"newspack_ads_suppress_ads":false,"newspack_popups_has_disabled_popups":"","_EventAllDay":false,"_EventTimezone":"","_EventStartDate":"","_EventEndDate":"","_EventStartDateUTC":"","_EventEndDateUTC":"","_EventShowMap":false,"_EventShowMapLink":false,"_EventURL":"","_EventCost":"","_EventCostDescription":"","_EventCurrencySymbol":"","_EventCurrencyCode":"","_EventCurrencyPosition":"","_EventDateTimeSeparator":"","_EventTimeRangeSeparator":"","_EventOrganizerID":[],"_EventVenueID":[],"_OrganizerEmail":"","_OrganizerPhone":"","_OrganizerWebsite":"","_VenueAddress":"","_VenueCity":"","_VenueCountry":"","_VenueProvince":"","_VenueState":"","_VenueZip":"","_VenuePhone":"","_VenueURL":"","_VenueStateProvince":"","_VenueLat":"","_VenueLng":"","_VenueShowMap":false,"_VenueShowMapLink":false,"_":"","_author_alias":"","cap-aim":"","cap-description":"","cap-display_name":"","cap-first_name":"","cap-jabber":"","cap-last_name":"","cap-linked_account":"","cap-newspack_employer":"","cap-newspack_job_title":"","cap-newspack_phone_number":"","cap-newspack_role":"","cap-user_email":"","cap-user_login":"","cap-website":"","cap-yahooim":"","newspack_article_summary":"","newspack_email_type":"","newspack_featured_image_position":"hidden","newspack_hide_page_title":"","newspack_hide_updated_date":"","newspack_post_subtitle":"","newspack_show_share_buttons":"","newspack_sponsor_byline_prefix":"","newspack_sponsor_disclaimer_override":"","newspack_sponsor_flag_override":"","newspack_sponsor_only_direct":"","newspack_sponsor_url":"","disable_auto_ads":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[32199],"tags":[],"newspack_nl_advertiser":[],"coauthors":[9454],"class_list":["post-81972","newspack_nl_cpt","type-newspack_nl_cpt","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-off-the-clock","entry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/lbpost.com\/esd\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/newspack_nl_cpt\/81972","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/lbpost.com\/esd\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/newspack_nl_cpt"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/lbpost.com\/esd\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/newspack_nl_cpt"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/lbpost.com\/esd\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/302"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/lbpost.com\/esd\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/newspack_nl_cpt\/81972\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":81994,"href":"https:\/\/lbpost.com\/esd\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/newspack_nl_cpt\/81972\/revisions\/81994"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/lbpost.com\/esd\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/81978"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/lbpost.com\/esd\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=81972"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/lbpost.com\/esd\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=81972"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/lbpost.com\/esd\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=81972"},{"taxonomy":"newspack_nl_advertiser","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/lbpost.com\/esd\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/newspack_nl_advertiser?post=81972"},{"taxonomy":"author","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/lbpost.com\/esd\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/coauthors?post=81972"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}