{"id":3520,"date":"2014-02-25T19:02:59","date_gmt":"2014-02-25T19:02:59","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/lbpost.com\/articles\/life\/food\/aji-brings-peruvian-cuisine-to-retro-row\/"},"modified":"2014-02-25T19:02:59","modified_gmt":"2014-02-25T19:02:59","slug":"aji-brings-peruvian-cuisine-to-retro-row","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/lbpost.com\/esd\/hi-lo\/food\/aji-brings-peruvian-cuisine-to-retro-row","title":{"rendered":"Aj\u00ed Brings Contemporary Peruvian Cuisine to Retro Row"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

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The causa pulpo al olivo. <\/em>Photos by Brian Addison.<\/em><\/p>\n

Though Long Beach\u2019s span of culinary variety is vast, there are some sobering pockets of emptiness\u2014the two of which I personally lament: Japanese noodles and, outside of the lone El Pollo Imperial in North Long Beach, Peruvian food.<\/p>\n

The latter has a better standing thanks to Retro Row\u2019s newest culinary addition, Aj\u00ed, from the same owners of its neighborly sister, all-things-carby pizza joint P3<\/a> (\u201cP-cubed\u201d for those wondering how to pronounce its name).<\/p>\n

This just-minted Peruvian joint keeps a straight-lined menu that offers clean, contemporary takes on classic Peruvian dishes\u2014though it is sometimes a tad too pricey and a bit too contemporized.<\/p>\n

Their ceviche\u2014Peru is where many have speculated ceviche originates from<\/a>\u2014is a close take on the Peruvian dish with five ceviches that range from classic\u2014the ceviche tradicional<\/em> is good ol\u2019 halibut with aj\u00ed limo, lime, and garlic\u2014to fusion\u2014ceviche nekei<\/em> is a Japanese-influenced version that aims for salty\u2019n\u2019sweet with soy and ginger.<\/p>\n

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The ceviche mercado.<\/em><\/p>\n

However, it\u2019s the ceviche mercado<\/em>\u2014a \u201ccatch of the day\u201d ceviche that was, at least in this version, made famous in Lima by renowned Chef Rafael Osterling in his restaurant El Mercado\u2014that stands out. This wonderful concoction of octopus and yellow tail is seeped in leche de tigre (the definitive Peruvian ceviche citrus base) and topped with rocoto peppers and the best part, fried calamari. I know what you\u2019re thinking: \u201cI don\u2019t need calamari fritters on my ceviche\u201d but the textural contrast and flavor are inarguable.<\/p>\n

Their healthy array of causas<\/em>\u2014a classic Peruvian snack that, in its most common form in Lima, are cold, mashed yellow potatoes served with boiled eggs and olives\u2014are beautifully presented. Three pillars of causas<\/em> are an easy, go-to tapas for the table and a sneaky introduction into Peruvian for those who haven\u2019t had much. The causa pulpo al olivo<\/em> are wonderfully salty and creamy: the potatoes, with a hint of key lime and onion, are topped with a concoction of octopus and olives.<\/p>\n

This isn\u2019t to say that things aren\u2019t left to be desired.<\/p>\n

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The “lomitos saltado” (left) with the causa pulpo al olivo (right).<\/em><\/p>\n

Regard, for example, their take on lomo saltado<\/em>, which Aj\u00ed calls \u201clomitos saltado\u201d: though all the parts are there\u2014beautifully stir-fried sirloin strips that sit on a stew of tomatoes and onions, paired with rice and french fries\u2014there is a cleanliness to it that makes me miss the rather glutinous aspect of lomo saltado<\/em>. For me, this is supposed to be comfort food: I want my fries to have the ability to be drenched in that wonderful broth and I want the comfort of feeling like I don\u2019t have to pay attention to my eating manners too<\/em> much.<\/p>\n

And at $18\u2014though the plate is actually quite delicious despite its lack of homeyness\u2014eyebrows can easily be raised. In fact, the dishes in general, including their tapas, don\u2019t fall under $10\u2014which means you better come with a full wallet, particularly if you want to drink. Even dessert\u2014Aj\u00ed offers the Peruvian donut picarones\u2014<\/em>though the sauce is sweet perfection, feels disheartening at $8.<\/p>\n

Speaking of drinks, let\u2019s not end on a sour note: wine and beer bottles are up and running with 15 beer taps to be installed within the coming weeks.<\/p>\n

Aji is located at 2310 E 4th Street and is currently opened Monday through Sunday from 5PM to 10PM.<\/em><\/p>\n

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