A few months ago, people lined up down the block for a taste of Maurice “Mo” Stewart’s Texas-style barbecue. His business, Brother’s Keeper BBQ, had gained a following as a pop-up around Long Beach since 2018, but today was different.
Stewart was testing a new, permanent space on Fourth Street that he would soon be moving into. In a recent interview, Stewart got emotional talking about how many people showed up to support his business.
“I do this because I love doing it,” Stewart said, tears welling up in his eyes. “I felt the food has always been good, but when people don’t know about you, it’s easy to want to give up because people aren’t there. So to have that [turn out] now and the last few pop-ups, I don’t take it lightly or for granted, because I know the work that I put in to get here.”
Brother’s Keeper BBQ officially soft-opened in that space on Fourth Street on Feb. 12, allowing Stewart to do the work he loves full-time.
He has always loved cooking, a passion he picked up from his grandmother, but he fell in love with smoking meats when he was given a smoker in 2017.
“I was hooked,” he said.
Stewart started selling his barbecue to neighbors, and things quickly evolved into the business it is today.
When Stewart told his grandmother that he wanted to quit his well-paying job as an operator at the Chevron refinery to open his brick-and-mortar location, she had some reservations. She was worried that leaving a stable career wasn’t the right move, but eventually she gave Stewart her full support.
“I think she slept on it, probably prayed on it, and then told me later, ‘Yeah, do it. Go for it, if it makes sense,’” he said.
Stewart’s food pays homage to his grandma, using or adapting many of the recipes she cooked for him growing up. Some things, like the potato salad and barbecue sauce, are exactly as she used to make them. Other recipes, like the baked beans, have been tweaked slightly.
Stewart said these family recipes are part of what makes Brother’s Keeper BBQ stand out. The baked beans, for example, include a secret ingredient his grandma added, giving the side a unique flavor that many customers can’t quite put their finger on.
“I don’t know why she ever decided to put this component in there, but she did, and I’m glad she did, because it makes it taste a little bit different than anybody else’s,” Stewart said.
Stewart also hopes his food can spark connection among his customers. After getting their order, they’re encouraged sit at communal picnic tables in front of the shop to eat.
It’s a set-up he plans to continue, even if he’s able to move into a larger location — something he thinks is in the future.
“I won’t settle for it being another way, because what’s the point? I don’t want to be just another restaurant,” Stewart said.
In the immediate future, Stewart is looking forward to the restaurant’s grand opening in the next couple of weeks and hopes to add breakfast items to the menu once he’s more settled in.
Brother’s Keeper BBQ, 3701 E Fourth St., is currently open Wednesday through Sunday from noon until they sell out. Read more about them on their website.