11:00am | Dining at Michael’s on Naples makes for a memorable evening. On each of my visits to Michael’s, I have been impressed with the ambition of the restaurant. The décor, wine list, staff and, most importantly, the cuisine place this restaurant at the top of the handful of local fine dining options.
Let’s begin with the obvious—the food. Michael’s rightly boasts its Zagat’s rating. They proudly announce on their website that they have the highest food rating (27) for Italian restaurants in Long Beach—and the second highest in LA. Executive Chef David Coleman, who was working the pass-through on my last visit, can be proud of this accomplishment.
The super-stars of the evening were the appetizers. The Polipo alla Griglia (pictured right) was sublime. The dish has small chunks of perfectly grilled octopus, served with roasted fingerling potatoes and lemon infused olive oil. The balance of flavors and textures of this dish was phenomenal—and was repeated on several occasions. The Fiori di Zucca (stuffed squash blossoms) had a perfect coating of breading and were fried to perfection which provided a wonderful counterpoint to the rich, creamy, almost overwhelming, ricotta stuffing. Other cold appetizers featuring prosciutto and salumis are strong choices.
The pasta selections also shine. My favorite is the Orecchiette con Salsiccia e Broccoli rabe which has small ear shaped pasta, served with house made Italian sausage (also offered as an appetizer) with a bitter green. The combination of the sweet and rich and slightly fatty sausage and the bite of the rabe together with the pasta is delicious. Michael’s Pasta—thick cut spaghetti with prosciutto, plum tomatoes, garlic, onions and basil—is another sure bet.
In fact, the pasta dishes are so good—and I’m a sucker for pasta—that it’s hard to try anything else. But if you want something heartier than pasta, you won’t be disappointed. Their pork entrée, Maiale con Mostarda—a large aged pork chop served with beans, chard and fennel—is very satisfying. Our last visit also featured a chioppino with roasted bass, clams and muscels and a rich lobster broth that was quite good.
Supporting the food is a wonderful wine list that is largely comprised of Italian wines. I enjoy being presented with a list of wines that includes many unfamiliar choices, by the glass or bottle, especially when there is a knowledgeable staff to help make a good choice. General Manager Massimo Aronne stepped in twice to offer suggestions that were the perfect accompaniment to our selections. Don’t be afraid to ask for a suggestion and to try something new—this is the perfect place to do that.
The setting for all of this is an attractive and modern space that appears formal but is not stuffy. The tables are close enough that it’s possible to chat with other diners or at least get inspiration for food or dessert choices. Upstairs, there is a roof deck with tables and a lovely sitting area which is a perfect place for a glass of wine before dinner.
So when you are looking for a fine dining experience, you no longer need to drive to L.A. or Newport Beach to have that experience thanks to Michael’s on Naples.
Michael’s On Naples
5620 E 2nd St
Long Beach, CA 90803
(562) 439-7080
www.michaelsonnaples.com
Fiori di Zucca