Good morning Long Beach — today, we’re going to take it Big Easy. 

When in New Orleans, there’s a certain loose albeit charmed formality to the way the folks out here say “hello, ma’am” (ladies, it’s not offensive the way we think it is in California). And another thing, anyone, I mean anyone just might call you “baby” — from the bartenders to the person giving you directions on the street. 

“Thank you, baby,” “Here you go, baby,” “you’re welcome, baby,” “The French Quarter’s that way, baby.” Personally? J’Adore. (You may also encounter spoken French out here). 

Not sure if it was the purple beret on my head or what, but a young man even stopped to ask me something in French while I was walking back to my Airbnb in the Treme neighborhood. When I looked perplexed, he did too. “Êtes-vous français?” he asked. 

“Non!” (I failed French class). Anyway, as I type this, I’m drinking a $5 French 76 (my creole turtle soup is on the way), and I’m going to tell you just where to find that. 

Today, we’re doing a short NOLA itinerary. Why? Because I’m here. And you should consider getting your butt here too — after all, you can book Southwest out of the blessedly easy Long Beach Airport for a halfway decent price nowadays. 

Walking around much of NOLA, you’ll see ornate moldings, iron balconies and vibrant colors splashed across its Creole-style architecture (or “French Colonial”). You’ll breathe in creole and cajun flavors and hear horns blowing around any given corner. You’ll spot plaques, museums and murals that tell the story of the blowingest and earliest-ever jazz players. 

You’ll also find a city unwavering of charm and willingness to offer its enchanting personality not really so long after Hurricane Katrina’s deadly submergence — and despite deep scars from a past life as the largest slave market in the U.S.  

From po’boys (that’s a sandwich, FYI) to sno-cones, beignets and beyond, there are simply too many things to share about NOLA, so I’m going to rapid-fire off a few of my favorite places from three neighborhoods. 

À votre santé.

Treme

Treme, near the French Quarter, is the oldest Black neighborhood in the country. It’s steeped in rich history as one can imagine and has been dubbed the birthplace of jazz — and Louis Armstrong. Take a stroll through Armstrong Park and be sure to take your hat off when you reach Congo Square; it’s the site where enslaved people could gather as early as 1796 to share drumbeats and dance together. 

Later, they would incorporate horns before the city banned music-playing for Black people in 1856. Today, walking around Treme, you’re bound to hear the sounds of drums, horns or singing just about anywhere — be sure to pause and listen. 

We chose to stay in this historic neighborhood, where we booked a room on Airbnb with Gwendolyn, a retired social worker who has lived in her home since 1943. Built in 1836, this house is real New Orleans and one of the first homes ever built in Treme. She has multiple rooms you can book for a great price. Check out her listing here and be sure to get a morning chat in with her. 

Two favorites:

Treme Coffeehouse – 1501 St. Philip St., New Orleans, LA

Colorful, cozy, hip albeit family-oriented cafe in the heart of the neighborhood. Buy one of their T-shirts and a chicory coffee. 

Fritai – 1535 Basin St., New Orleans, LA

Chef Charlie Pierre, a Top Chef contestant this spring, asked us how we liked our meal and where we were from when we stopped into Fritai. He opened his restaurant, with Haitian roots and NOLA influences, in 2021. It’s since been nominated twice for a James Beard Award. Go here — especially for happy hour, where you can get (veggie heads rejoice) toasted corn ribs, akra, the fritay platter and more half off. Plus $5 cocktails like the Jungle Bird (Appleton Single Estate, Campari, lime, Orgeat Syrup and pineapple juice). Drool over Pierre’s menu here. 

More: Backstreet Cultural Museum, St. Augustine, Fatma’s Cozy Corner

The French Quarter 

The Vieux Carre or Crown Jewel of the city, is the oldest neighborhood in town (founded in 1718). It’s also the most touristy — for good reason. I suggest starting out here in the morning if you can, while it’s quiet, so you can just wander. At night, weave your way through this jazzy, romantic, old-world burrow beneath flickering gaslit street lights. 

Here, you’ll find a reimagined sprawling French Market (Bloody Marys while trinket shopping, anyone?) Jackson Square, creole cuisine, an 18th-century cathedral, unparalleled happy hours, voodoo shops, tarot card readers on every corner and more. 

Here are some places I went:

NOLA PoBoys – 908 Bourbon St., New Orleans, LA 

This place has a lot going on menu-wise. They sell 12- and 8-inch po’boys of almost any and every variety. They even have a grilled portobello po’ boy and plenty of other veggie options. We split an 8-inch shrimp po’ boy here probably about 22 minutes after arriving in town and I haven’t stopped daydreaming about that spicy flavor punch yet. If anyone knows where to get a good shrimp po’ boy here in LB, you let me know ASAP. 

Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop Bar – 941 Bourbon St., New Orleans, LA

Let’s just get Bourbon Street out of the way while we’re here eating po’ boys. This is Vegas-level energy on steroids; be careful walking around solo at night — not an impossible feat, but stay vigilant. Honestly, I had my fill of this area by Night One, but there are some interesting places like the swashbuckling Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop Bar, which is the oldest bar in NOLA built between 1722 and 1732. While I was there, I got “The Purple Drank,” a frozen drink which definitely wasn’t being served in the 18th century, but I couldn’t tell you which century we’re in now by the time I reached the bottom. 

Looking for a really fun night out? Skip Bourbon Street and head to Frenchman Street (Bywater area) — that’s all I’ll say. You’ll know what I mean when you get there. 

Broussards – 819 Conti Street, New Orleans, LA

A 100-year-old elegant French-Creole bar and restaurant, where you can try the most popular cocktails from each decade they’ve been open from the 1920s Bee’s Knees to the 2020 Brousard’s Smile. During happy hour, all 11 of those cocktails, plus a few more, are $5. Yours truly enjoyed a French 76 (as discussed above), a Pimm’s Cup and a roasted beet goat cheese salad. Plus, I even tried a bite of creole turtle soup (it was good but turtles are just too cute). 

Vampire Cafe – 801 Royal Street, New Orleans, LA

Of course NOLA had to have a vampy cafe, which pretty much constantly plays Lana Del Rey and adjacent sad girl music. Here, you can order Blood Bag Cocktails, which actually come in bags of red-liquid. You can also get drinks like the Type A, a “Dracula Sparkling St. Germaine Cocktail.” 

When I visited, I was working remotely, so I opted for the “Stake This” to keep it professional. It was a loose tea blend of herbs, flowers and green and rooibos teas. I also enjoyed a big old bowl of seafood gumbo and damn-near ordered a second. 

BONUS: Take a jazz cruise on Steamboat Natchez ($55) along the Mississippi River. Plus, check out the dreamy Carousel Bar & Lounge — the bar actually spins, slowly, of course.

Bywater/Marigny

This is by far the coolest and hippest modern area in NOLA. It’s everything that L.A. (Silverlake in particular) just couldn’t get right. Check these places out:

Horn’s – 2440 Chartres St., New Orleans, LA

Best breakfast I have ever had in my short life in the cutest neighborhood imaginable. I ordered the Crabby Wife; that’s crawfish étouffée, house-made potato latke with two eggs and a biscuit. Plus, a bloody mary with house made mix. 

Parlour Books – 3229 Dauphine St., New Orleans, LA

This shop is tiny, but you’ll want to spend hours perusing the owner’s careful selections. After I plucked “Coming Through Slaughter” by Michael Ondaatje from the New Orleans section, she pointed me to check out the Holt Cemetery, a pauper’s graveyard of unmarked graves. A few pages in, I realized that’s where Buddy Bolden, the book’s subject, is buried. Bolden, a New Orleans cornetist, is known as the “first man of jazz”. We did visit this graveyard and his monument, which read “blowingest man since Gabriel.” He died in 1931 at 54. 

More: Euclid Records, Bratz Y’all Bistro, Dr. Bob Folk Art, Dat Dog Frenchman, Bacchanal Wine.

BONUS: The Warehouse district is also worth checking out. There, check out Bar Marilou. You should also take some time to wander around New Orleans City Park in Mid-City.

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Notice I didn’t tell you where to get a beignet, a sno-ball, sazerac, etc. —  these things aren’t hard to find and they’re best discovered instead of sought out. Cheers and happy travels.