Photos courtesy of Long Beach Animal Hospital

Last week’s article, “Potbellied Pigs—Part I,” focused on the genesis of pig-mania and tips for the care of one of them if you live in an area that permits ownership. This article further explains some of the tips that Dr. Palazzolo introduced and tells you about dealing with some of the conditions that make little piggies go “Wee, wee, wee, wee.”

Environment

Pigs are fine living in outdoor enclosures. But mini-pigs are susceptible to sunburn, hyperthermia and hypothermia. They need shady spots during the summer and raised platforms with bedding to keep them warm in the winter. Mini-pigs may be housed outdoors, indoors or both, but they must be appropriately acclimated to their specific environmental situation. Most of the pigs we see in our office do live inside.

Mini-pigs are sensitive to extreme heat and cold and should be provided a clean, dry, draft-free environment. Adults are usually comfortable in a temperature range of 65 degrees Fahrenheit to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Because pigs do not sweat, temperatures greater than 85 degrees Fahrenheit are stressful to adults.

Pigs that become too hot will spread out their legs and pant. Lamps or pads can be used to provide supplemental warmth, but their use should be monitored closely because of the electrocution risk from chewed cords. Extended exposure to high temperatures combined with high humidity may be fatal to mini-pigs not acclimated to such an environment. Cooling methods for adult mini-pigs include moving air across the body using large fans, wetting the skin for evaporative cooling, providing shade, and resting on cool surfaces.

Diseases and Conditions

Skin Conditions

Dry, flaky skin with minimal to severe itching is seen in virtually all mini-pigs. Wiping down the skin with wet towels each week will remove the flakes. Moisturizing lotions—aloe vera, for example—also temporarily alleviate this problem. Essential fatty-acid supplementation can be used as a more long-term remedy, but caution must be exercised not to promote obesity.

Sarcoptic mange is the most important ectoparasitic disease of mini-pigs. Intense itching and dermatitis are the basis for a presumptive diagnosis. In many cases, the animal’s owners have itchy skin lesions on their own arms or abdomen.

This poor porker has mange, which is thankfully treatable.

Examination under a microscope of skin scrapings confirms the diagnosis in advanced cases but may be negative in less-advanced cases if very few mites are present. In young mini-pigs, the source of infestation is usually the dam; in older ones, the source is usually other infested pigs.

Young mini-pigs isolated from other pigs and kept as pets may harbor mange mites as a subclinical problem until the mite population increases sufficiently to make the condition obvious. Recently acquired young mini-pigs may be given a routine preventive injection of a parasiticide when first presented for examination. If the pig’s owners notice itchiness on themselves and think they’ve contracted mites from their pet pig, they should be seen by their own doctor.

Weight

Obesity is a very common problem in mini-pigs. Overeating is the main contributor, especially as the pig gets older and demands more food. Most people give in to their pet’s demands because of the squealing and the size of the pig.

Obesity coupled with an improper pen can cause lameness and damage to the hooves.

Grooming

The hooves will need periodic trimming. The teeth need trimming in some pigs since the tusks can grow to excessive (and dangerous!) sizes.

Hooves can be trimmed with a Dremel, but it’s best to let the professionals do it! The noise may not sit well with your pig.

Watch those tusks for length!

And pet pigs must be spayed and neutered just like other animals.

Our website has information on how these surgical procedures are performed.