A reader suggested Taco Masa on Seventh Street and Park Avenue across the street from Wilson High School, recommending the Adobada con todo, and recommended not going during Wilson’s lunch periods. Sound advice.
A corrugated steel-decorated walk-up counter greets you, showing the expanse of the exposed kitchen. At the door, bags of mesquite charcoal are stacked against the window indicating that there are going to be flavors coming out of that exposed kitchen that are daring to be something different.
Owner Ivan Flores, who also owns The Buffalo Spot next door, is no stranger to the formula of knowing how to produce crowed pleasing foods–quickly—from his experience in owning several different restaurant brands across the country. This newest, Taco Masa, opened in early October in a location formerly occupied by Starbucks.
The crew has been honing their skills on the waves of Wilson High School students that seem to ebb and flow, as the students congregate on the outdoor dining patio and then rhythmically retreat back to the confines of classrooms, leaving behind tidepools of horchata and random trash.
The menu is simple: tacos ($3.75), mulitas ($5.75), tortas ($10.50), or quesadillas ($7.50) to act as the vessels for asada, adobada, or jamaica (hibiscus flowers—or more specifically the calyx of the hibiscus flower—as a vegan option).
One of the rather refreshingly unique attributes is that they make their own tortillas, both flour and corn. And it goes without saying that the difference between pre-made and freshly made tortillas is the same difference as concentrated orange drink, and freshly squeezed OJ.
Be sure to order everything con todo (with everything), because otherwise you’re left with flavors that are lacking dimension, leaving each bite to have just one note.
Between the asada and the adobada you’re going to have to go for the adobada every time, no matter what edible vessel you choose. Not that the asada isn’t fine, but the flavor of the steak comes from the grill alone, and seems to be lacking in any seasoning at this point in their cooking, something that they are sure to fix as they get rolling.
If you are an asada lover, then you need to be sure to ask for extra of their red, hot sauce, for lack of a better descriptor. A splash of this sauce adds just the right amount of much needed salt, heat, tang, and explosions of that mesquite that was bound to show up somewhere, and then rounded out by a heavy dose of tomato paste adding the much needed umami. This sauce is the great equalizer for all their food and something they need to bottle. (A note on umami: if you’re not sure if something has umami, here’s a tip … if you keep going back to dunk your fingers in to taste, it’s got umami — eg. ketchup. Can’t have fries without it for a reason.)
The adobada is dense with flavor. Packed with flavor. Huge with flavor. Soft, tender pork that is rich and smokey with bits of char from an extremely hot sear, locking the chili marinade inside so that the oils seep out with each bite, adding a satisfying soft crunch.
The adobada in a taco comes with a light cilantro-lime crema that’s tangy and nice for allowing the flavors to meld, but it’s not necessary because it only takes from the concentration of the flavor of the meat.
The tortillas are a big home run here as well, and are worth standing your ground among the herds of W branded Bruins. Sweet and dense, just strong enough to hold the package, with just enough toothsomeness and chew that they’re satisfying all on their own. The bread used for the torta has a sweetness that, combined with its spongy texture, has the ability to sop up flavors that create a filling and satisfying bite every time (especially if you’ve got copious amounts of that red house sauce).
Finally, the V option: the jamaica (hibiscus), as a vegetarian option is something that will need to be tried again another time. While it’s a great idea, and laudable, at the time of this writing it still has a few kinks to work out. I’ve always regarded an eatery’s true strength is in how well it can tackle a vegan or meat-free option, because let’s face it, it’s easy to make something amazing when you’re cooking with fat (flavor), but it’s when you don’t have the fat to fall back on that you see what a kitchen can really do.
Taco Masa 4740 E. Seventh St., 562-263-4629 tacomasa.com. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Friday-Saturday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.