DSC 0892

The causa pulpo al olivo. Photos by Brian Addison.

Though Long Beach’s span of culinary variety is vast, there are some sobering pockets of emptiness—the two of which I personally lament: Japanese noodles and, outside of the lone El Pollo Imperial in North Long Beach, Peruvian food.

The latter has a better standing thanks to Retro Row’s newest culinary addition, Ají, from the same owners of its neighborly sister, all-things-carby pizza joint P3 (“P-cubed” for those wondering how to pronounce its name).

This just-minted Peruvian joint keeps a straight-lined menu that offers clean, contemporary takes on classic Peruvian dishes—though it is sometimes a tad too pricey and a bit too contemporized.

Their ceviche—Peru is where many have speculated ceviche originates from—is a close take on the Peruvian dish with five ceviches that range from classic—the ceviche tradicional is good ol’ halibut with ají limo, lime, and garlic—to fusion—ceviche nekei is a Japanese-influenced version that aims for salty’n’sweet with soy and ginger.

DSC 0883

The ceviche mercado.

However, it’s the ceviche mercado—a “catch of the day” ceviche that was, at least in this version, made famous in Lima by renowned Chef Rafael Osterling in his restaurant El Mercado—that stands out. This wonderful concoction of octopus and yellow tail is seeped in leche de tigre (the definitive Peruvian ceviche citrus base) and topped with rocoto peppers and the best part, fried calamari. I know what you’re thinking: “I don’t need calamari fritters on my ceviche” but the textural contrast and flavor are inarguable.

Their healthy array of causas—a classic Peruvian snack that, in its most common form in Lima, are cold, mashed yellow potatoes served with boiled eggs and olives—are beautifully presented. Three pillars of causas are an easy, go-to tapas for the table and a sneaky introduction into Peruvian for those who haven’t had much. The causa pulpo al olivo are wonderfully salty and creamy: the potatoes, with a hint of key lime and onion, are topped with a concoction of octopus and olives.

This isn’t to say that things aren’t left to be desired.

DSGAji

The “lomitos saltado” (left) with the causa pulpo al olivo (right).

Regard, for example, their take on lomo saltado, which Ají calls “lomitos saltado”: though all the parts are there—beautifully stir-fried sirloin strips that sit on a stew of tomatoes and onions, paired with rice and french fries—there is a cleanliness to it that makes me miss the rather glutinous aspect of lomo saltado. For me, this is supposed to be comfort food: I want my fries to have the ability to be drenched in that wonderful broth and I want the comfort of feeling like I don’t have to pay attention to my eating manners too much.

And at $18—though the plate is actually quite delicious despite its lack of homeyness—eyebrows can easily be raised. In fact, the dishes in general, including their tapas, don’t fall under $10—which means you better come with a full wallet, particularly if you want to drink. Even dessert—Ají offers the Peruvian donut picarones—though the sauce is sweet perfection, feels disheartening at $8.

Speaking of drinks, let’s not end on a sour note: wine and beer bottles are up and running with 15 beer taps to be installed within the coming weeks.

Aji is located at 2310 E 4th Street and is currently opened Monday through Sunday from 5PM to 10PM.

Read more:

{FG_GEOMAP [33.7715606,-118.16415619999998] FG_GEOMAP}