Photos by Sarah Bennett.
December 27 marks the day that Michael Dene of Michael’s on Naples fame will open his much-anticipated high-end Italian steakhouse, Chianina, in the former Kelly’s of Naples building on 2nd Street.
Chianina, named after the Kobe-like breed of Italian cattle, dramatically transforms the interior of the 2,500 sq. ft. space which for 55 years held the dark-and-wooden classic American steakhouse Kelly’s. Partnering with Studio Unltd—the crew behind LA eateries Food+Lab, Bestia and Mess Hall—Dene gave his latest venture a rectangle-driven design that uses varying shades of grey while tossing in hints of yellows and whites.
The soft lighting in an otherwise windowless room is almost antithetical to the perpetual gold glow of Michael’s on Naples’s interior and the Chianina’s use of soundproof marterial on the ceiling and walls is especially unique for the restaurant group. With recording-studio quality sound absorbsion and mostly four-top booths that separate diners from others in the room, Chianina attempts to create individual, intimate spaces rather than communal ones.
“We are utilizing sound barriers that allow people to have more enjoyable evenings that encourage conversation,” said Dene.
The new restaurant will also feature a 25-seat bar, where craft cocktails and wine will be served as soon as the liquor license is granted to the space come February 1.
“This is an extension of what we were doing at Michael’s of Naples: we’re trying to accomplish the same activity at a steakhouse,” Dene said. “It’s boutique, it’s simplistic. We’re not just a butter-and-grill steakhouse—it’s a totally different product.”
That different product mostly stems is the Chinanina cattle, famed for being the epicenter of the Italian classic bistecca alla fiorentina, known in the States as “Tuscan porterhouse.” Entirely grass-fed and 30% less fatty than traditional steaks, Dene’s restaurant group is currently raising his own stock of cattle in Iowa and patrons can expect to taste the fully grown animals within the next eight months. Until then, head chef and Michael’s on Naples food guru David Coleman will serve up Piedmontese beef and traditional beef cuts—New York strip, porterhouse, and so on—with sustainable seafood and a variety of veggie plates.
Pork belly chunks served on a bed of curry lentils and applesauce with crispy pork skin.
“Part of my challenge is to make sure the menu doesn’t compete with Michael’s,” Coleman said.
To prove that, Coleman served a preview of some dishes that inspired the Chianina menu at a private press preview. From curried root vegetable salad to tortillinis in a salty beef broth —Coleman’s self-described it as his take on a French onion soup—the menu is rich and differs extensively from its popular neighbor. Other dishes included a crab and jicama rice-paper wrap, succulent pork belly chunks served on a bed of curry lentils and applesauce with crispy pork skin on top and a delicately braised lamb shank (which was braised for eight hours) and falls right off the bone.
“It’s a space that adds comfort to allow for an extraordinary experience rather than your average mac-and-cheese restaurant steakhouse,” Dene said. “We want to create something more differentiated from the other restaurants and steakhouses out there.”
Chianina is located at 5716 E 2nd Street and will serve dinner Tuesday through Sunday from 5PM to 11PM.
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