Chianina03

Chianina01

The details of Chianina’s spectacular food—the subtlety of thinly sliced red jalapeño added on top of avocado-wrapped dungeness crab, the hint of salt amidst an otherwise perfectly housemade honey roll—should supersede the fact that the institution still doesn’t have a legal bar. But a run-in with the state’s Department of Alcoholic Beverage Control has left the much-hyped Italian steakhouse without a “Bring Your Own Booze” policy and hours far more limited than originally anticipated.

The creation of Long Beach culinary master Michael Dene, Chianina was Dene’s attempt at providing a sibling down the street from his famed Michael’s on Naples: a high-end, no-apologies Italian ristorante that caters to those who want the best cuts of meat not just in the States, but in the world. Dene, after all, is bringing Italy’s famed chianina cattle—Italy’s answer to Japan’s kobe—to a farm in Iowa just for his new endeavor.

Both Dene and manager Alejandro Duran knew that, going into their opening last December, diners prefer their food with wine and cocktails. What they were not prepared for was the ABC storming into their business for allowing patrons to bring their own alcohol while they waited for the City to approve their own liquor license.

“None of us knew it was illegal—and we’ve been in the restaurant business for years and have seen it in every city we’ve worked in,” Duran said, who was brought in from Austin to head Chianina. “But the ABC told us it doesn’t strictly enforce it and goes on a don’t-ask-don’t-tell basis—and apparently, someone told.”

Chianina02Chianina—which was left without a liquor license after the owner of the building’s former restaurant took his with him following closure—saw its opening weeks bustling. Patrons, unfettered by having to bring their own bottles, came in with Silver Oaks and Paolo Manzones from their own collections while enjoying what could arguably become the best steaks in south Los Angeles County.

But the ABC infraction was a major hit to Chianina. After they were told they could no longer offer a BYOB policy, the restaurant was forced to decrease its operation hours and layoff 25 employees.

“You’ve no idea how hard it to tell 25 people,” said Executive Chef Dave Coleman, “25 people whom you just trained, you just spent time developing a concept with, that they have to go. After three weeks.”

Now, the steakhouse is only open on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays and only for three hours every evening, a devastating loss of business for Chianina, whose owner’s other restaurants have put Long Beach on the national culinary map.

Still, as Chianina awaits its alcohol license and its operators lament their loss in employees and patrons, the steakhouse continues to churn out impeccable food—the kind of culinary expertise that resulted in Michael’s on Naples being named the best Italian restaurant in Los Angeles County by Zagat—and is preparing for a busy Valentine’s Day weekend. 

“We can offer you the finest 2014 vintage sparking water,” Duran joked, “But in all honesty, we believe our Valentine Day’s menu will be among the best.”

On the day of love, the steakhouse will offer a four-course prix fixe menu filled with choices  ranging from decadent—squid ink spaghetti with a buttery uni sauce and sliver of fresh uni on top—to the downright traditional—an 8oz filet mignon paired with gnocchi and forest mushrooms.

“We won’t stop making beautiful food,” Coleman said. “And once we do open that bar, Long Beach won’t know what hit ‘em.”

Chianina is located at 5716 E 2nd Street and offers regular dinner service Friday through Sunday from 6PM to 9PM. They are now accepting reservations for their Valentine’s Day prix fixe meal; for reservations, call 562-434-2333 or click here.

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